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[Prishtina-l] Anthony's Pier 4 reclaims the scene..Daqki at aol.com Daqki at aol.com
Fri Mar 17 16:29:59 EST 2000
On the latest issue of Quarterky Wine Rieview .....www.qwr.com. MICHAEL MONDAVI and his son, Rob, were on hand at Anthonys Pier 4 to reunite with another father-son team, Anthony Athanas and his son, Paul. The occasion was called an Evening with Michael Mondavi, and it prompted Pier 4 to open its war chest of fine wines. And what a war chest it is! There are no naysayers doubting the quality and breadth of the restaurants wine list. The exact number is not known, and Anthony Athanas and the inimitable wine director, Peter Holt, are not talking, but the number must be utterly vast. In any event, thewines presented for the Mondavi evening were nothing if not stellar. Nearly 100 people were on hand, and cases of Robert Mondavi wines were hauled out and very generously poured. The night started with Carneros Brut Reserve 1991. Bet you didnt know that Robert Mondavi made sparkling wines, or that this was Michael Mondavis last vintage before giving the winemaking over to brother Tim. The other wines that followed were awesome: Robert Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc, Stags Leap District 1996, the Chardonnay Reserve 1994 in three-liter bottling (it was served with the restaurants specialty, Lobster a la Anthony, and was a marriage made in heaven, as was indeed the next course: Robert Mondavis Sauvignon Blanc Botrytis 1994 and fresh foie gras with apple and rhubarb). Anthony Athanas served cases of older Robert Mondavi wines that any auction house would die for. First, came the splendid 1978 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve offered up in magnums, which was unbelievably young and elegant, with big berry and spice flavors. Michael Mondavi likened it to a supple gymnast in that it had less oak aging, prompting a softer and gentler and kinder wine. All this served as counterpoint to the mighty 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve in Magnum, a weightlifter, according to Michael Mondavi, showing great intensity and power. The 1974 was younger than the 1978, and actually needed more breathing time. After 15 minutes or more, the wine yielded a richness, with mild tannins, along with deep berry, spice, oak flavors. The bottle, it seems, will age as long and as gracefully as Robert Mondavi and Anthony Athanas themselves, who at 86 and 87 respectively are still spry, nimble of wit, and raconteurs of the first order. As for Anthonys Pier 4, it has regained its old glamour as a hot wine spot, as it was in the 1960s and 70s. Its a place where quality and price still mean something, and, as if to prove it, the cost for the Robert Mondavi event was only $125 per person. And we almost forgot: the price included dessert (chocolate soufflé) and Robert Mondavis Porto Cinco 1993 Woodbridge Estate port, along with Rob Mondavis cigars (Michaels son owns the R. Mondavi Napa Cigar Company), which are well made products from Don Diego and H. Upmann.
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